Being an Urban Alaskan #2 – What’s it like to live in Alaska?

[UPDATED!] You’ve found your way to post #2 of my series of articles on the Urban Alaskan, written for my non-Alaska friends, where I talk about how my day to day experience is exactly like yours, mostly, except for the moose and timezone and other stuff. If you want to catch up, you can see post #1 here.

I wanted to go into this post talking all about how my day to day life is exactly the same as anyone else in America, or at least close enough that it’s totally 100% relatable. I even got stuck in a lovely long traffic-jam this morning (do you see the line of traffic? It’s way off in the distance at the foot of the mountain) [As I update this, I didn’t get stuck in traffic today, but it’s been a problem most of the summer],

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but as I approached work, thinking about how I was going to re-organize this post to talk about the mundanitude of the usual Urban Alaskan day, I passed a moose sauntering up the sidewalk on a road more or less smack dab in the middle of Anchorage. To be clear, this is a totally normal thing here, and it reminded me that, yes, actually, even Alaskan city life is a bit unique, but in that unique sort of way every place is. No matter where you’re from, there is some unusual aspect to your life that isn’t common elsewhere. But for whatever reason Alaska seems to just capture folks attention.

In any case, I can’t really answer the question posed by the title of this post without a bit of context. What I can say is that certainly not going to answer it in a single post. Being from Alaska is a sexy thing to be. It’s always an excellent ice-breaker, gives you infinite leverage to discuss everything Alaska, no matter how urbanly-myopic you might be. Being able to say “I’m from Alaska” will make you seem way cooler than you actually are. As I’ve already said, living in urban Alaska is about like living anywhere else in the continental US. For example, when I do my shopping at Target, there is a better than 50% chance that I will buy a coffee at the Starbucks inside. I think that’s a pretty typical thing for a middle-class American to do.

Before I keep going, I need to clarify one item, and this is one of those big difference items. My definition of ‘urban’ or ‘non-rural’ tends to be VERY different from most people in this country. When I say ‘rural’, I’m usually talking about a place that requires travel by aircraft or boat. In my mind ‘urban’ also includes places that in other parts of the country would be considered decidedly rural. Take my house for example. I regard myself as being an urban Alaskan but I’ve got six acres and our neighborhood does not look like what most folks picture when you say ‘suburban’. I’ve even heard someone describe our little chunk of land as an ‘estate’ given it’s size (That was like 15 years ago and I’m still laughing about it). 

There are three main urban centers in Alaska, Anchorage/Mat-Su, Fairbanks, and Juneau/Douglas (I’ve also included Ketchikan in the map here because it’s designated as “non-rural” under subsistence rules). Some folks might also consider Kenai/Soldotna, part of the Anchorage/Mat-Su urban center, but I’m not going to argue that point just now. Or maybe ever. It doesn’t matter, both of those areas are a bit complicated.

I happen to live in Wasilla which about 30 road miles north of the state’s largest city and economic hub and population center, Anchorage. We haven’t got counties up here, we have municipalities and boroughs, all of which are large enough to beat up a small east coast state and take their lunch money.

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Wasilla sits in a borough by the name of the Matanuska-Susitna Borough (Mat-Su for short or just ‘The Valley’ for folks in this region). It’s about size of West Virginia with a total population of about 100K (7% of the total state population). To get your mind around that number, if you flew every single one of us to Columbus, Ohio we’d all fit inside the Buckeye’s home stadium. Being that Wasilla is so close to Anchorage, you can’t really talk about living here without also talking about Anchorage. After all, many, many people living in Wasilla and our companion city, Palmer, work in Anchorage. Apart from being the state’s population center, the Municipality of Anchorage is geographically larger than Rhode Island and takes roughly two hours to traverse in light traffic when you hit all the lights green. It sports a population just shy of 300K. When combined, this region makes up roughly half of the state’s entire population.

Now you have a solid handle on the geography of where I live and the unusual distinction between urban and rural that I make, I feel like I can proceed, and I’ll keep the rest of this brief – I promise.

Last Saturday, we hopped in our car and drove about ten minutes up the road to Target for school supplies. Along the way, we were on paved roads the entire time, didn’t pass a single moose or bear, I don’t recall seeing a single dog musher, and absolutely none of the houses we passed were igloos. No small airplanes swooped down to the roadway in for a quick landing [Update: Highway landings have happened on at least two occasions this summer as I write this], and the temperature hung right at about seventy degrees. I’ve been to Target stores in Maryland, Ohio, and Minnesota, and the one thing I can say about them is that they’re all about the same. When we were done with our school shopping, which did not involve extreme winter gear or specialized Alaska school stuff, we got our groceries at Fred Meyer (Kroger). I’ve never visited one of these outside of Alaska, but I understand they all have about the same layout across the pacific northwest. So, you can bet that was pretty normal. After that, a quick stop at JoAnn Fabric for some knitting stuff and home. As we drove across Wasilla, we passed the usual fast-food restaurants and box-stores you might expect to find in a town of this size – Carl’s Jr, Taco Bell, Panda Express, Walmart, PetCo, Famous Footwear, Verizon, iHop, Lowes and Home Depot, more than one Starbucks, and a bunch of others. (Pardon the image, it’s from a several years ago in fall, but you can see some familiar logos in there)

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I think the most remarkable thing about the whole routine trip, from the perspective of someone living outside (yes, we bloody call you outsiders), is that I bought some Navel Oranges for $2.59/lb. If I don’t miss my guess (Because I found it on USDA website), the national average is closer to $1.50/lb. A similar cost difference is true for apples, onions, berries, and bread. It’s true that living in urban Alaska is more expensive than elsewhere, but not horrible – no worse than living inside a big city. At least not as far as consumer goods are concerned. [Update] Yesterday I went down to the Verizon store and bought a new iPhone 12 and set up the 3rd of our children with their first phone. The prices we pay here are exactly the same as anywhere else in the country.

My point is that day-to-day, my life here is really not so different from the average American.

Next Up: What’s the weather like?

Being an Urban Alaskan #1 – Why the hell do you live in Alaska?

[Updated 07/29/2021 – I was in the shower this morning thinking about work and life and school and all that and I remembered this series, and how it just sort of died. I thought I’d revist it and break from the grad-school posts, at least for a minute.]

Some time ago, as I crawled out of bed and rummaged through my social media notifications from friends in more civilized timezones, I tossed out the idea of a blog about the urban Alaskan experience. This was followed immediately by positive reception and encouragement to consider a series of posts. So, here I am. These blog essays are going to be relatively short and focused on one general topic. As I proceed through my stories of the Urban AK experience, if anyone has a story to share, I’ll post it in the series.

To answer the question in the title of this post: I live in Alaska because this is where I grew up. While I wasn’t born here, this is home. From my earliest memories until I was about ten, I lived in Anchorage then we moved to Wasilla. My college years were spent in Fairbanks with a couple summers in Seward. After college my wife and I moved to Maryland for a year then we were back to Seward, then Anchorage and finally Wasilla, in the home we’ve lived in since.

As with many white urban Alaskans around my age, I wasn’t born here. I was born in Georgia to parents from Ohio and Minnesota. We came up when I was around 1. As you could imagine, I don’t have any memory of that time. I consider my year long adventure in Maryland the only time I’ve lived out of state. While I’m about to go on in a whole pile of posts about how much urban Alaska is just like everywhere else, I’d be lying if I tried to tell you moving from Fairbanks, AK to Ellicott City, MD wasn’t a shock to the system. I can’t exactly put my finger on it, but there is a real, tangible difference between east and west coast culture.

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The truth of it is that I had a great job in Maryland. It was super interesting, paid well, and had excellent prospects for advancement. Really, it was exactly the kind of place you go off to have a career. After about 9 months or so, it became clear that the bustling ocean of humanity and unfamiliar pace of life weren’t a good fit for us. This wasn’t really an overnight realization, it settled on us slowly until it wasn’t deniable anymore. We started looking around us and peering uncomfortably into the future in that lazy manner twenty-somethings do. You know – the future is a place we’d have to go at some point, but not just yet, so let’s not think about it too hard. Those small forays into “what do you think the future holds” made us realized that life was going to be completely unlike either of our childhoods. We weren’t going to have a cute little house with a creek out back and maybe some chickens and things. Living in Maryland meant we’d be crammed into a row-house, neighbors stacked so tightly on either side that we might as well be dried, salted, and packed in oil.

It wasn’t until we went back to Alaska for a couple of weeks that it became abundantly clear that that happiness wasn’t going to come from work alone (a life-lesson I’ve got to re-teach myself every few years). We were also going to have to be happy with where we were. So, we made a plan, packed all of our things into our Subaru and a little trailer and scuttled back up the highway. Neither of us had a job, our savings amounted to just enough to get us through a month, and yet off we went.

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After a challenging few months, we found good jobs, then a bit later a nice little house with the creek and eventually chickens. Really, we could have gone anywhere to find this. Even in Maryland, had we really really looked, made some concessions, and developed a plan, we’d have found something similar. Really, the pull to home was strong and so here we are, and hopefully, here we stay.

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Next up: What’s it like to live in Alaska?

Sick days & fever dreams

I was out sick yesterday. It wasn’t awful. Didn’t have the plague or anything, but I did want to sleep in and then spend the rest of the day basically sitting around. Really, I just felt tired and didn’t want to get anyone else sick, plus a bit of rest can go a long way in feeling better. Anyhow, that’s not the interesting thing. Last night I crashed out a little too late and I had odd dreams. Last night’s dream involved me talking to someone else, also me. The writer part of me. He reminded me of a story  idea that I’d come up with some weeks ago and failed to write down. Then, we proceeded to have a discussion of plot and characters and research methods. It was so vivid that I remember it even now after getting up, coughing my guts out and downing most of a cup of coffee – and also being chased round the house once by the geese. It was odd seeing the writer side of me personified and telling me things that I couldn’t remember the night before.

Anyhow. That’s my writer update. I’ve got a new concept on the sketch pad and I’m stalling on Dark Queen because, well, I want it to be an awesome story and don’t want to rush it. It’s sitting at 90K right now with a plotted target of 110-120K. In other news, I just submitted a short story to a self-pub anthology effort. The deadline is the 31st of August, so hopefully I’ll have more news on that as it progresses, but it might be a while. Now – on to chores. They don’t pause for sick days 🙂